“Gini vinis to locu nostros!” which means “Welcome to our place, have a good time!” was wished to us in the Vlach dialect by the Vice Mayor of Tourism and Health of Northern Zoumerka, Mr. George Pappas, and this is how our journey to beautiful Tzoumerka began.
“Tzoumerkochoria are about 47 villages built between the 14th and 15th centuries and stretching from the north of the prefecture of Arta to the south of the prefecture of Ioannina. They are villages nestled in forests with fir, plane and chestnut trees, unspoilt nature, traditional settlements, stone-built houses, churches, caves, waterfalls, composing a mosaic that everyone should visit at least once in their life.” Pappas said.
He added that:
“Next to Tzoumerkochoria are Katsanochoria, which consists of 11 villages, with Kaletzi, Elliniko and Plaisia being the most famous of them. Each one hides its own paradises that come to complete a puzzle with the main characteristics of pure natural beauty, the truth of the people and the unpretentious hospitality.”
The history in this spectacular place is lost in the depths of time, challenging the visitor to explore and get to know every aspect of it.
Dining at the traditional tavern “Tzoumerka” in Ktistades
In a stone-built square, overlooking the verdant slopes, in the village of Ktistades, near Pramanda, the tavern “Tzoumerka” offers traditional dishes of the day, local meats, Epirus pies and delicious salads with fresh products.
The shade of the large plane tree that is located right outside the restaurant, creates the ideal place to enjoy your meal, listening to the sounds of nature.
Guided tour to the cave “Anemotrypa”, the whitest cave in Greece
Just 3 kilometers from the village of Pramanda, hidden on the mountainside, at an altitude of 900 meters, is the cave “Anemotrypa”. A magnificent creation of nature, with a history of almost 15 million years and the only cave in Greece that has a river running through its entire length.
The cave unfolds in three sections and the air temperature is consistently at 19 degrees Celsius and the water temperature at 10 degrees Celsius.
Uniquely carved coloured stalagmites and three ponds in shades of grey, brass and white, formed over time, create a dreamy atmosphere.
Coffee at the luxury hotel “Orizontes”, in Tsoepela Pramanto
In a lush forest of cedars and fir trees, at an altitude of 1,000 meters, is the hotel “Orizontes”. Its location at the foot of the mountain peak “Strogoula” offers a panoramic view of the area just 1.5 km from the centre of Tzoumerka, the village of Pramanda.
The large windows of the ground floor where the café and the restaurant are located, offer a unique view of the imposing ridges of Tzoumerka, sometimes green and sometimes white. Guests can enjoy their coffee or drink in the comfortable and atmospheric area of the hotel’s cafeteria at any time of the day.
The buffet of handmade pastries and the on-site libraries will accompany you during your stay.
Syrrako: The largest stone-built village in Greece
At an altitude of 1,150 metres, built on a slope of Mount Lakemos, the stone-built village of Syrrako rises up. The village stands above the gorge of the river Hrousia, a tributary of the Arachthos, while across the gorge it faces Tzoumerka.
Syrrako retains unchanged the traditional Epirus architecture with its stone-built houses with slate roofs. In 1975 it was designated by the Ministry of Culture as a settlement of special natural beauty and special protection and in 1978 by the Ministry of Planning and Environment as a traditional settlement.
The main structural material of the buildings of the settlement is the carved stone on the walls and the slate on the roofs. Many buildings are large and rich, which testifies to the economic prosperity of Syrrakos in the past.
It is noteworthy that vehicles are forbidden to pass through the village, thus preserving its traditional colour intact. The presence of vehicles is allowed up to the entrance of the village, where a stone bridge connects it with the modern road. However, there is a peripheral road leading into the village, which does not alter its traditional character.
Visit to the museum of the poet Kostas Krystallis in Syrrako
In the traditional settlement of Syrrako is the family home of the poet and prose writer Kostas Krystallis (1868-1894), which is now a museum and library.
Apart from the poet’s personal belongings, other exhibits are presented in the museum’s infrastructure, such as the means of production of the household cheese-making and textile industry, traditional costumes and photographs of the period.
Mr. Kostas, the guide, with a lot of love for his place, takes you on a journey through the memories of the past. The bust of the poet dominates the courtyard.
Dinner at the tavern “O Stavraetos”
The traditional tavern “O Stavraetos” in Syrrako is the first tourist business of the area. It was founded in 1976 by Vassilis Vaitsis and to this day his family continues to provide its services to visitors and lovers of the village.
The developed livestock farming of the area and the production of cheese products are the most important element of the gastronomy of Syrrako. On every table you can find a wide variety of cheese recipes such as fried graver cheese and kefalotyri, galotyri and baked feta. The gastronomic diversity of the area is enriched by the pies, whose recipes are passed down through time unchanged from generation to generation.
Accommodation at the “Old School Boutique Hotel” in Syrrako
From miles away stands out the “Old School Boutique Hotel” in Syrrako, which has been standing undisturbed for a century and is classified as a Modern Monument, preserving its original architectural design.
Mrs. Matina Loli and Mr. Vangelis Giotopoulos, Vice President of the Hotel Owners Association of Ioannina, loved the area and brought back to life the old primary school of the village, with its vast history, turning it into a Boutique Hotel of high standards.
Mrs. Matina told us about the history of the building:
“The construction of the school began in 1925 and was completed in a very short time, in 1929. It is the only designated listed traditional tin building and is made entirely of 80 cm thick stone. The school had reached the number of up to 400 pupils…The school stopped operating in 1980 after the introduction of compulsory education in 1977.
From 1980 to 2000 it remained closed and due to the deterioration and the need for maintenance it was converted into a hostel in order to accommodate local residents everywhere at a better price. However, this project did not succeed and the building remained closed. From 2004 to 2017 the hotel was rented by a young man from Preveza, who got married and moved to Ioannina. Then the building was closed and after the coronovirus was put up for auction.”
So today this beautiful place accommodates visitors to the village and the surrounding areas offering rooms with high quality, in beautiful colors, ideal for relaxation and rest.
Traditional continental breakfast in the hotel’s courtyard overlooking the green landscape and the stone roofs. Syrrakiotic yoghurt, local honey “Galazoula”, fresh tea, handmade jams, traditional pies and cakes made by Mrs. Matina.
Rafting in the Arakhthos river with the experienced team of Via Natura
According to mythology, once upon a time, on the top of the mountain Lakmos or Peristeri, there lived three brothers, the serious Arakhthos, the beautiful Salambria (today’s Pinios) and the wild Aspros (today’s Acheloos), who were born in Pindos. One night Salambria disappeared. She had left to meet a god of Olympus in the plain, but was disappointed and drowned in the Ionian Sea.
When Aspros, meaning Acheloos, found that his sister was missing, he began to search for her, rushing through the mountains between cliffs and gorges. Arachthos was inconsolable and began to wander around alone in Epirus looking for his beloved brothers and sisters. He made it as far as the Amvrakikos Gulf and, as soon as he realized that he had lost his family for good, he fell into the Ionian Sea and drowned.
The area of Tzoumerka is suitable for alternative activities such as rafting, hiking, climbing, cycling, archery, etc. in all seasons of the year.
Via Natura’s experienced team is ready to introduce you to the secrets of rafting and after equipping you appropriately (uniform, helmet, special life jacket shoes), guides you step by step and safely throughout the route.
A unique experience for young and old!
The route from the bridge of Politsa to the bridge of Plaka, about 12 km long, is of difficulty level 3 and its duration is about 2 hours. It is the third in a row navigable part of the Arachthos and perhaps the most beautiful in Greece.
The bridge of Plaka, built in 1866 and rebuilt in 2019, is the largest single-arch bridge in the Balkans and the third largest in Europe.
During the route, a stop at the Klifki Waterfall with its turquoise, cool waters is a must. The high mountain peaks, steep cliffs, caves and the turquoise waters of the river create a landscape out of a fairy tale.
Lunch at the famous tavern Boutzas, in the village of Pramanda
Just behind the church of Agia Paraskevi, in the beautiful village square, the family butcher’s tavern of Boutzas is a constant value, as since 1957 it has been consistently offering excellent meat straight from the family butcher’s shop.
Here the visitor will taste local meats, lamb “kleftiko”, zygouri, kokoretsi, grilled sheep, lamb chops, golotyri and traditional cheese pie.
Tour and lunch at the village of Kalarrites
Built into a steep rock, on the road to the traditional settlement of Kalarrites, is the Holy Monastery of Kipina.
In 1212, Monk Gregorios started building the monastery and dedicated it to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. The name of the monastery is due to the gardens cultivated by the monks. The monastery flourished in the 18th century and its monks were distinguished for their social work.
In 1817 the monastery passed from the geographical boundaries of the town of Syrrako to Kalarrites, since the Syrrakites did not give a girl for the harem of the tyrant Ali Pasha. The location and nature of the monument made the monastery inaccessible and one of the few that was not destroyed by bandit raids.
The monastery is accessed by a path carved into the rock and a small wooden suspension bridge, which the monks used to raise with a lever to cut off access to enemies.
Upon reaching Kalarrites, after strolling through the cobbled streets of the village, the route leads to the main square where young and old gather for coffee, food, drinks and conversation.
It is noteworthy that the elderly residents of the village still speak the Vlach dialect, a language that is passed on orally from the old to the young.
Right next to the square is the private history and folklore collection “Angela Chr. Golfinopoulou”. In the old mansion that belonged to Mr. Kostadima, before it came into the possession of the Golfinopoulos family, a rich collection of historical and folklore exhibits is kept.
There, the retired teacher Mrs. Katerina Mousafiri – Golfinopoulou guides visitors with kindness and kindness, revealing the treasures she keeps.
The tour ends with a meal at the barbecue “O Baros“, in front of the village square, with traditional pies, local cheeses, giants with lapatha and handmade sweets.
Tour of the village of Elliniko – An open-air art museum
Visit to the Museum of Contemporary Art “Theodoros Papagiannis” and the Holy Monastery of Tsoukas
It is worth mentioning that along the entire route, from the entrance of Elliniko to the hill where the Holy Monastery of Tsoukas is located, there are works of the artist Theodoros Papagiannis, decorating the landscape and intertwining tradition, memory and art.
The Museum of Contemporary Art “Theodoros Papagiannis” was founded in 2009 and is housed in the building of the old primary school of the village which was built by great Epirotic craftsmen with money from the benefactor Nikolaos Mandelopoulos.
The famous sculptor Theodoros Papagiannis is one of the few – if not the few – Greek artists who use a variety of materials, such as wood, metal, polyester, clay, etc., which are often recyclable, forgotten or discarded. In the museum we see works made even from the ruins of the Polytechnic.
The artist’s works speak of the man, the trades of the place, the spiritual blossoming and were created “from the memories that marked him and have marked him throughout his life. They were made from powerful experiences that fed his creativity,” according to him.
Following the route, northeast of the village, at a distance of 3 km from the museum, you’ll find the Holy Monastery of Tsoukas. The monastery, dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, and at an altitude of 760 meters, is perfectly preserved and dominates the top of a steep, almost vertical cliff with an absolute view of the gorge of Arachthos.
According to tradition, the monastery was founded in 1190 by Emperor Isaac II Angelos, destroyed in 1736 and restored in 1779. It is said that an icon of the Virgin Mary was found on the rock of Tsouka and the Lozetinians, i.e. the inhabitants of Elliniko, built a chapel on the hill of St. Marina and placed it inside. The icon, however, was carried every night to Tsouka, thus indicating the location of the construction of the monastery.
The Holy Monastery of Tsuka got its name from the top of the hill where it is built, as “Tsiouka Analta” in Vlach means “high peak”.
At the back of the monastery, the visitor and pilgrim of the monastery can admire the gorge of the Arachthos River, which has been classified as a landscape of special natural beauty.
Food at the tavern “O Douskos” in Elliniko
A few steps away from the Papagiannis Museum, in an elevated square, under the shade of the plane trees, the tavern “O Douskos” offers authentic traditional flavours.
You will taste local meats, galotyri, bouillanthi, traditional pies and delicious desserts in a welcoming and warm environment, overlooking the beautiful landscapes of the area.
